Modifying antenna array template

Does anyone have a modified antenna array template that will cover the 2m ham radio band?

Thanks!!

For the 2m band the array will be quite large, not something easily printed on a paper or 3D printed.

Best to use the Excel calculator https://github.com/krakenrf/krakensdr_docs/raw/main/antenna_array/Antenna_Array_Size_Calculator.xlsx. Enter the frequency, choose the largest feasible antenna Max radius, and then use the “Antenna Coordinates for Radius” calculator to get the coordinates of each element.

I punched in the full size 88cm into the antenna array calculator for 145mhz. Is it normal for it to generate an asymmetrical configuration? Just want to make sure before I CNC a custom jig out of a sheet of 1/4" plywood.

Here’s a tool I made from yardsticks for kraken antenna setup. I use .28m to (barely) cover 2m & 70cm. The trick (it’s been 50 years since my last trig class :wink:) was to make the drilled holes relative to the upper bolt, not the center, so only the lower bar has to be moved if you want different spacing. Just an idea…

Kraken Tool

Here is the template I created for the bands I’m interested in, which includes the 2m and 70cm ham bands and much of the 70cm business and public service bands. Using the spreadsheet, these are the three general ranges I settled on:

VHF (118-295 Mhz). Radius is a big 17 inches (0.4318m).
UHF (212-531 Mhz). Radius is 9.5 inches (0.2413m).
UHF (364-911 Mhz). Radius is 5.5 inches (0.1397m).

I bought a poster board from an office supply store and cut out a 22x6 inch section and layed out a center line with these radius lengths. I then printed out 2 copies of the base template, full size on 8.5x11 inch paper. One to keep for use on the vehicle and one for cutting out, using an exacto blade, the base template and antenna base outlines on the poster board as shown. This poster board folds up to store with the base template and works out very quickly to set up the antenna array.

The shape of the antenna array will always be a pentagram with 5-elements, so asymmetrical on one axis.

I’ve been seeing a bunch of reports from people using the array calculator that claim the array is not symmetrical as expected. I think what you’ll find is that it is not DISPLAYED symmetrically, because the axes of the plot aren’t at the same scale. However if you do the math on the coordinates, it should be A-Ok.

hi sir. i want to df for 433 MHz can any one guide me

For my array, I used a string with a three loops in it, one at each end and one near the middle.
The distance between the end loops is the array radius + the inter-element spacing from the spreadsheet.
The distance form one end loop to the loop in the middle is the radius. That end is the radius loop. The distance from the middle loop to the other end loop is the inter-element spacing from the spreadsheet. That end is the spacing loop.

To use:

  1. Place antenna 0 at the front of the space on the surface you’re using (e.g. the car roof).
  2. Place the middle loop on that antenna and pull the radius loop back down the center line of the surface until it’s tight.
  3. In the radius loop, mark the array center (ideally on a piece of painter’s tape).
  4. For antenna 1, put the spacing loop on antenna 0 and the radius loop on the center point.
  5. Pull the middle loop to the right of the center line so both sides of the string are tight.
  6. Antenna 1 goes where the middle loop is.
  7. Repeat this around the center in a clockwise direction for the rest of the antennas: spacing loop on the previous antenna, radius loop on the center, and next antenna in the middle loop.

It’s harder to describe than it is to actually do.
After the first time, you can set up an array very quickly.
I have strings for 25cm, 45cm, and 60cm radii.
The printed templates are nice, but for people with only wire and string at their disposal, this is another option.

Would you mind posting a picture, please?


To use:

The picture shows the loops reversed from the previous instructions, but for that measure, it doesn’t matter. The rest of the steps should match the photos. The yellow line represents the center line and points to the front to show the orientation of antenna 0 as the angle of the photos is different in each shot.

In practice, pulling on the ends in a triangle shortens the distance between the ends and the middle loop slightly. It doesn’t seem to bother the results too much, but if you want to be precise, you could place the elements where they belong and use a slip-knot to calibrate the distance between loops under tension, or use something like a ring or a washer for the middle loop.

The end picture looks like they’re a little uneven, but that’s because I couldn’t put tension on the string and take a picture of it at the same time. Also, I did this on the car’s hood, which is slightly curved. As such, the geometry is slightly off. It all works out on a flat surface.

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